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We've recently received some feedback from happy guests...your comments are always appreciated!

 

To all who were involved in organising our trip, but especially to Henk who was a fantastic guide and host on our trip: a giant thank you. Our 4-day trip with you was the best the best trip of our lives and back in grey London, we have raved about it to friends ever since. I think we will live forever with the vivid memories of the dunes, beaches and mountains. Our many photos can never do justice to the enormity of the visual impact of what we saw and the experience of Henk's interest and enthusiasm about even the smallest detail of the trip. Thank you, and wishing you all a terrific New Year in 2008. Viv and Matth  

 

Now that we are back down to earth here in Qatar, I just wanted to write you a quick note to confirm safe receipt of the refund you organised in respect of the airport transfer. Additionally, I’d like to take the opportunity to say a huge thank you to Andre and the rest of the Skeleton Coast team for what was a truly memorable trip. The whole experience was wonderful and will stay with us for many years to come.  I’m sure that there is a huge amount of effort and planning that goes into the logistics behind the scenes, in order to make the trip run so smoothly and to appear seemingly effortless and straightforward. The company was great, the scenery inspiring, the itinerary exceeded all of my expectations (and I had high expectations); and to top it all off, Andre’s hugely informative, considered, yet understated stewardship of the tour really made the difference. In fact, we’ve been enthusing about the trip with our colleagues and friends so much since we got back that I wouldn’t be surprised if you start getting bookings through from that previously unheard of hub of tourism called Doha! Finally, we are mulling over whether we should pack our parents off to you next year to experience the trip whilst they are still active enough to make the most of it…we’ll see how they react to the 700 picture slide show of our trip when we next see them and maybe we’ll be in touch again. Thanks again for everything and particularly to Andre.  Please tell him that departures from an international airport (which I have to do frequently) will never be quite the same again after Windhoek! Karen and Stephen     

 

Dear Denitza, Well, we are now back in the UK with only memories and photographs to remind us of our most fantastic experiences with Andre and SKS. But what memories and what an experience. We had such an enjoyable time. And we are now your unofficial un-paid sales people in the Cotswolds here. Thank you again for giving up your Sunday evening to bring the book down to the airfield. Our friends were delighted to have it signed by Bertus who was their guide a couple of years ago. It was our friend's enthusiasm that made us book with you and 'to hell with the money'. Yvette and Don    

 

I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the Skeleton Coast Safaris Team and in particular Bertus for such a fantastic safari.  We loved every minute of it and it was by far and away the highlight of our whole honeymoon.  We will be sure to recommend you to all our friends! Sophie

 

May 2006, June 2006

 

General:

Safari A with Clinic: From 25 to 29 May 2006

25 May 2006: Bertus led the way in a C210, while Henk and myself followed on with Peter Nutt as Pilot of the C208 (caravan). Accompanying us in the C208 was Dr Estie Maritz and her Mobile clinic.

 

Safari A +C: From 07 to 11 June 2006

07 June 2006: I started of early in the morning from Windhoek for this 5 day safari with 2 guests, and was joined by André later in Swakopmund, from where we continued together.

 

Safari A + B: From 14 to 17 June 2006

14 June 2006: Bertus left early in the morning to visit the Sossusvlei Dunes, and I joined him later en-route along the coast.

 

Mobile Clinic

Sponsors: Teresa Waters & Stuart Graham who have been on a safari with Henk & André Schoeman.

Other anonymous benefactors also assisted in the operation.

Doctor: Estie Maritz

Project Manager: Helga Schoeman

 

26 May 2006 Quidas:

From 10H00 to 13H00 was visited by four SCS staff members, thereafter six young children, all the children seen by Dr. Maritz were in general good health and have all had there vaccines to date.

 

27 May 2006 Purros:

From 09H30 to 13H00 was visited by four SCS staff members. The word was out and by 10H30 there were patients from the Purros region, at least 60 – 80, waiting to be attended to. We did our best to see to the most serious problems starting with the children. There is a definite need for a clinic in this area, as many of the children have not as yet had their standard vaccines, and appear to suffer from colds and flu.

 

28 May 2006 Hartman Valley:

From 09H00 to 12H30 was visited by 4 SCS staff members. There were not as many people as in Purros, but we did have our hands full, and I do believe that a more regular visit by a clinic would benefit the local people greatly.

 

We are now formalizing a Foundation for Medical Care in Remote areas of Africa (initiating in Namibia), under the auspices of Dr E. Maritz, who is also the Executive Director of the Medical Association of Namibia, and she specializes in Travel and Aviation Medicine. Our plan is to eventually be able to visit the areas mentioned above at least every 3 months, though initially we will probably only manage every 6 months.

 

We have already received further sponsorship from Safari Guests:

Ms. Kay Jones; Ms. Frances Gerson; Ms. Karla Pendexter; Ms .Pat Gradek; Mr. Michael Hays.

 

 

 

Should anyone be interested in donating funds or contributing towards this Medical Clinic Service, please contact Tanja Dahl or Helga Schoeman at the Skeleton Coast Safaris Office.

 

Tel: +264-61-224248

Fax: +264-61-225713

E-Mail: scs@iway.na

Address: P.O. Box 2195

Windhoek

9000

NAMIBIA

 

Windhoek to Sossusvlei/Swakopmund:

 

Weather:

25 May 2006: There was barely a breeze on the way to Sossusvlei, and on the ground it was quite ideal, a beautiful clear day.

 

07 June 2006: We experienced east wind conditions on the way to Sossusvlei, but surprisingly the conditions on the ground were quite favourable, with only a gentle breeze tickling the surface.

 

14 June 2006: The east wind had stopped blowing 24 hours ago and the visibility was so magnificent, we could see the Gamsberg as soon as we were over the mountains west of Windhoek, just after departure.

 

Wolwedans/Sossusvlei to Swakopmund:

 

Weather:

25 May 2006: The coast was clear of fog to the south of Swakopmund.

 

07 June 2006: The coastal weather proved to be lovely with not much wind.

 

14 June 2006: The clear sky of this morning followed us to the coast, giving wonderful photo opportunities.

 

Coast/Sea:

07 June 2006: The sea was clear and as we flew over Sandwich Harbour we spotted plenty of shark swimming around in the lagoon, there were also dolphins cavorting in the bay.

 

14 June 2006: Clear skies experienced up to just north of Sandwich Harbour, where we flew over the dunes along the fog bank, taking advantage of the mystic aura.

 

Animals Sighted:

25 May 2006:

Seals: We saw plenty of seals scattered along the coastline south of Conception Bay, basking on the sand and leasurely floating in the water.

 

Birds Sighted:

25 May 2006 / 07 June 2006 / 14 June 2006:

Flamingoes: There was no flamingo to be seen – they have all migrated to the interior, probably the Etosha for breeding. With such a good season of rain behind us, we expect to see a wondrous increase of flamingo on their return.

 

Swakopmund to Quidas Camp:

 

Weather:

25 May 2006: The coast was shrouded with a cloud cover, sending us to the interior, where we crossed over the Messum Crater, which is a layered intrusion from an ancient volcano probably about 60 million years old.
 

07 June 2006: André and I flew up the coast and landed for a lunch break, the water was cold but the sun shone in all its glory, with the wind – not too strong – cooling the effects of the sun.
 

14 June 2006: The fog persisted, so once again we routed over the Messum Crater in the sun, the lighting was absolutely amazing. The sun in this late afternoon accentuated all the curves and mounds reflecting an orange glow over the vast landscape.

 

Animals Sighted:

07 June 2006:

Seals: The breeding colony at Cape Cross boasted its large numbers as we quietly glided over them. A large number paddling around in the ocean.

 

Interesting Sightings:

25 May 2006:

Spring: Bertus took all the guests for a walk to the spring which was quite full now after the exceptional rains.

 

Quidas Camp:

 

Weather / Stars:

25 May 2006: We arrived at camp in time for a sundowner, and to enjoy the quiet tranquility as the dying wind left only the gentle rustle of the reeds to dance in our ears.

Later in the evening with a clear sky, Bertus chose the best of the “jewels of the sky” to entertain our guests. The Jewel Box is always a hit as is the Globular Cluster and Omega Centauri.

Old stars migrate towards a globular cluster where they eventually die.

When looking through a telescope, the jewel box appears to be a group of stars of different colours and brightness and size, this is caused by stars of various ages in line of sight, though not grouped together. The younger stars will be white, while the older stars are red, and the ones in between a yellowish colour, depending on their distance and size, the sizes and brightness will vary.

 

07 June 2006: We arrived at the camp just before sunset, and while the guests prepared for dinner, André set up the telescope for stargazing. Before dinner everyone sat round the telescope and enjoyed André’s animation as he explained various sightings through the scope.

 

14 June 2006: The weather was at its best, with a visibility reaching all the way to the Brandberg – the highest mountain in Namibia. We all enjoyed a drink as we watched the changing colours while the sun disappeared behind us.  The stars were as magnificent as ever, the clear sky only enhancing their beauty.

 

Activities:

26 May 2006: While Bertus went for a walk to visit the engravings and the paintings, I assisted Dr Maritz with the Clinic.

 

08 June 2006: André took all of us for a long walk to the paintings and then over the ridge to the engraving. He gave us an informed account of the history he believed to be the cause of the dwelling sights.
 

15 June 2006: In the morning we woke up to a spectacular view of the fog sneaking into the valley below us. It felt like we were on top of the world as the white fog randomly disclosed selected hilltops. We took to the vehicles today and ventured to the red mountain, the weather being as ideal as it was, made for a kaleidoscope of colours. There are so many reds and yellows, and now that we have had rain there are greens as well, with the blue sky as a perfect background.

 

 

Quidas to Terrace Bay:

 

Weather:

26 May 2006: Today I flew the guests to Terrace Bay, the weather clear and pleasant, while Bertus flew with the Clinic.

15 June 2006: Today the fog played with us, though, we were able to stay under it to get into Terrace Bay, where there was not much wind.

 

Terrace Bay Dunes:

 

Weather:

26 May 2006: The roaring dunes provided for entertainment under our warm African sun, with a blue blue sky as a backdrop. The children infecting all with their contagious merriment and unsuppressed laughter.

 

08 June 2006: The sunny skies provided a beautiful lighting for ideal photography, while the fit were put to a challenge to climb the dunes to re-experience the roaring effects.

 

15 June 2006: We chased the sun to the edge of the dune belt, where we felt the warmth in the sand collected over the day. After successfully experiencing the roaring dunes with the sun as an ever-patient spectator, the fog came creeping in to provide a feeling of awe and mystery. We drove back to the aircraft over the hidden dune tops through the fog.

 

Terrace Bay to Puros Camp:

 

Weather:

26 May 2006: I led the way back to Purros in the late afternoon enjoying the quietness and appreciating the rare sight of the green slopes.

 

15 June 2006: We flew to the edge of the fog bank then along it over the dunes still glowing in the sunshine. What a peaceful time of day.

 

Puros Camp:

 

Weather:

26 May 2006 / 08 June 2006 / 15 June 2006: Arriving at sunset, we all gathered around the campfire to enjoy a drink accompanied with excited chatter as we discussed the days adventures.

 

Animals Sighted:

27 May 2006: Once again I assisted with the Clinic while Bertus took the guests for a game drive and to visit the local Himba Village.

Elephant: The elephant made their appearance at the water hole near the canyon (South of the Camp), and Bertus and his guests witnessed the two young bulls in a playful fight with the cows looking on with disapproval.

 

09 June 2006: André had a great drive but unfortunately the elephant were somewhat elusive.

 

16 June 2006: The warm sun at dawn was welcome after a pretty cold night. After breakfast I tended the aircraft and Bertus took to the wild riverbed in search of the elephant, but once again they chose to remain hidden.

 

Purros to Hartman Valley (Kunene Camp):

 

Weather:

27 May 2006: Bertus left Purros ahead of us (The Clinic), as we had quite a large number of patients to see. We caught up with Bertus at Hartmann Valley, where there was quite a wind blowing. Bertus reported a lovely day along the coast with a shining sun and a strong wind.

 

09 June 2006: A beautiful day along the coast with the seals scattered along the beach basking in the glorious sun.

 

16 June 2006: It was not really foggy but rather hazy today, the sun just a silhouette disc in the distance, the warmth of which we were denied, giving a nearly eerie experience as we flew along the coast. As we left the coast to the interior the sun peeped through the scattered clouds, throwing intense rays onto the Hartman dunes – what a sight to behold.

 

Kunene Camp:

 

Weather:

27 May 2006: The air had a chill in it as we drove to the camp in the late afternoon.

 

16 June 2006: The clouds persisted, and grew thicker leaving little room for the sun to break through, but the effect painted the landscape with contrast and intrigue.

 

Activities:

28 May 2006: We started the Clinic earlier this morning, but still had to rush towards noon as we had to race the sun to Windhoek. Bertus took the guests on a boat ride on the river to view the bird life and find a crocodile or two.
 

10 June 2006: I walked the guests to a rock outcrop, watching the bird life en-route. André came to collect the guests from this rock and took them on the morning ride while I prepared lunch.
 

17 June 2006: The clouds did not want to give way and the sun was only allowed to let a few warming rays reach the earth. However, the skies cleared a little later, giving us all an opportunity to bask in the sun. The crocodile made the most of the “Giant Heater” and took to the banks affording Bertus a chance to view it from a distance.

 

 

Hartmann Valley to Windhoek:

 

Weather:

27 May 2006: Henk flew the guests back to Windhoek today, while Bertus & I flew with the Clinic. The day was clear and free of bumps.

 

09 June 2006: André flew on to Otavi where he would spend the night and visit the Etosha the following day, while I flew back to Windhoek, to end a wonderful safari.

 

16 June 2006: We flew back to Windhoek in a hazy sky, brought on by the east wind.

 

Marthin Kasaona:

 

Marthin has returned from KwaZulu Natal University (RSA) on the 30th of June after completing his course work for his Master’s Degree in Environmental Studies, he is now on his way to the Caprivi to complete the field assignment on human - wildlife conflict.

The goal of the assignment is to determine the problems the local inhabitants encounter arising from conservation of wild life, and the problems the Wild Life Conservation encounters from settlements in and around the conservation areas. The assignment is also to supply possible solutions to the challenges we are to envisage.

 

Should anyone be interested in sponsorship, could you please contact Tanja Dahl at the Skeleton Coast Safaris Office.

 

Tel: +264-61-224248

Fax: +264-61-225713

E-Mail: scs@iway.na

Address:

P.O. Box 2195

Windhoek

9000

NAMIBIA

 

 

Upgrading of tents:

 

Henk and Léon are working on our new tent upgrades, which will be build onto wooden platforms. We do not wish to move away from the camping adventure, but we are planning an en-suite bathroom for each tent.

Our prototype is proving to be quite a challenge, and as soon as we have it up we will furnish some pictures.

 

Guest Feedback:

 

We have decided to insert E-Mails received from Guests that have visited our safari. We are planning to open a FORUM page, which will allow all kinds of feed-back from guests – both positive and constructive.

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Lauren

To: 'Skeleton Coast Safaris (iway)'

Sent: 21 June, 2006 12:21 PM

Subject: THANK YOU

 

Morning Tanja, Zonja, Andre and Helga

 

I have finally settled down at the office after my time away in Namibia and Cape Town and would like to say "thank you" for the most incredible experience of my life.

 

Despite never having been to Namibia, it has always been a country that has spoken directly to my soul, more specifically the Skeleton Coast has been on the top of my list of places to see before I die. I was first exposed to the "Schoeman Family" Skeleton Coast Safari in my early days as a consultant and the product was something that so appealed to my sense of wonder that I always recommended it to those clients wanting something different, an experience never to be repeated or forgotten. Client feedback has always been incredibly positive - "the highlight of our trip", "highly recommend the Skeleton Coast Safari, it added a completely new dimension to our holiday", "so glad you suggested the Skeleton Coast Safari, thank you". While I did not have first hand experience of this safari I knew I could sell it with absolute confidence (and envy!) as it was obvious that it was a winner.

 

Receiving your invitation to join Safari A was like winning the lottery, needless to say I got no work done the rest of the day, instead I kept pinching myself to make sure it wasn't all a dream. Incredibly this feeling is still with me days after the trip - wonderful flashes of memory while braving peak hour traffic, standing in line at the grocers, enjoying dinner with friends - memories of staring down a plus 700m long 34 degree mountain slope from the top of a landrover with Helga screaming "Heee Ha" as we slowly make our way to the bottom, waking every morning to the most beautiful view from my open tent flap, the healing vibration of the Roaring Dunes, the wonderment of Natures' artistic flair and her passion for colour and contrast. A life-changing experience - yes, a soul-changing experience - most definitely.

 

Each day and each camp provided something new, no two days were the same, in fact no two hours were the same. As one of the guests, Maria, commented "you can't possibly close your eyes or you are bound to miss something", everywhere you looked offered something to be amazed about, something to catch your breath, something new to learn. And Andre and Helga were absolutely fantastic as they explained the history, geology, ecology and culture of the different areas. My brain became a sponge as they filled it with facts, myths, anecdotes and tales and this is what, for me, sets this safari apart from all the others - the absolute passion and dedication this family has for a part of the world that has fed their souls since the day they were born. Their commitment and love for the Skeleton Coast was tangible and their honest desire to share this with guests was inspiring.

 

After a two hour presentation to staff in which I went through the stunning photos, the itinerary, the camps, my impressions, my experience from beginning to end, I was asked "what would you like to see changed or improved?" - easy answer, nothing!! This was a perfectly unique and honest experience which I would not wish to change as it has changed me.

 

Thank you.

Kind Regards

Lauren

 

 

 

Please forward any other suggestions or comments to:

Tanja Dahl at the Skeleton Coast Safaris Office

Tel: +264-61-224248

Fax: +264-61-225713

E-Mail: scs@iway.na

Address: P.O. Box 2195

Windhoek

9000

NAMIBIA

 

 

 

2006

January 2006

01 January 2006: Henk and I started off in different dirtections this morning, Henk flew over to Windhoek international to meet up with 2 of his guests, from there he headed via the coast to Swakopmund where the remaining two guests awaited his arrival. I flew over to Witwater on my own to pick up my 4 guests, as it was still early the flight was quite smooth.

03 January 2006: André started off in Windhoek for his 4 day safari with 4 guests.

Windhoek to Swakopmund:

 

Weather:

03 January 2006: It was cloudy and cool, but at the sea patches of open sky teased the eye and sparkled on the still waters below.

 

Animals Sighted:

03 January 2006:

Oryx: At the Kuiseb Canyon André and his guests saw a herd of 30 – 40 oryx grazing on the plains.

Hyena: Just south of the Eduard Bohlen ship wreck a Brown Hyena was spotted scouting between the seal colonies, scavenging for some carrion.

Fish: The ever increasing size of fish schools were clearly seen from the air.

 

Wolwedans/Sossusvlei to Swakopmund:

 

Weather:

01 January 2006: It had heated up quite some by the time I had arrived at Witwater, by the time we were airborne the temperature had already reached 38°C. It turned out to be a bumpy and warm flight, but we opened the window for some fresh air. Once at the coast a more pleasant temperature of 24°C was awaiting us with no fog.


Coast/Sea:

01 January 2006: The ocean was calm and quite clear, allowing us to view schools of fish from the air, in some of these schools we spotted seals feeding.

 

Animals Sighted:

01 January 2006:

Seals: We saw plenty of seals basking on the sand and leisurely floating in the water. Now after the breeding season, there were plenty of yearlings who had joined the juvenile colonies. As is experienced every year a large number of these yearlings are too week to make it on their own, so the beaches are littered with their carcases. South of Swakopmund and north of Meob Bay the colonies are primarily juvenile non-breeding colonies, though occasionally a newborn pup will be spotted amongst these colonies.

Jackal: There were quite a few Jackal (black-backed) roaming within the seal colonies, scavenging on the dead yearlings.

 

Birds Sighted:

01 January 2006:

Flamingoes: We were surprised by a flock of about 70 flamingoes flying in a southerly direction, we saw them south of Conception Bay. They boasted bright pink colours. At Sandwich Harbour we sighted the normal large flocks of Flamingo, the juveniles still not as pink as the fully grown Flamingo.

 

Swakopmund:

 

General:

01 January 2006: I landed with clear skies, and warm temperatures for our refuelling stop. We all made use of the new facilities now available at Swakopmund airfield, while the aircraft was being refuelled, then hurried to join Henk who was waiting for us at the Ugab Formations.

 

Interesting Sightings:

01 January 2006: As we were waiting to board our aircraft, the Skydivers provided us with their usual entertainment, filling the skies with their colourful canopies and the air with their excited shrieks.


Swakopmund to Kuidas :

 

Weather:

01 January 2006: Still clear and barely any wind to talk of.

03 January 2006: André noted that there was quite a rain shower falling at Gaiais (southeast of Kuidas). At the coast there was quite a wind, which took some of the lettuce laid out for lunch and added some of the famous "Desert Spice" to the food.

 

Coast/Sea:

01 January 2006: The Sea was still so calm it resembled a lake, the flying also very smooth.


Animals Sighted:

01 January 2006:

Seals: The breeding colony at Cape Cross proved to be exactly that, with large numbers of new-born seals dotted around in the colony.

 

Birds Sighted:

03 January 2006:
Strandloper: (White-breasted Plover) When André landed on the beach for lunch he found a nest with 2 eggs in it, a little too close to the aircraft, so with the help of the guests he moved the airplane away to a more acceptable distance. To prevent any future mishaps, André discreetly placed some rocks round the area of the nest. The adult Sanderling, who had been playing injured to divert the danger away from the nest now promptly returned to its brood and sat on the 2 eggs.


Plants and Flowers:

01 January 2006:

Hoodia: At the Ugab formations the Hoodia was covered in little flower buds, waiting for possible rain so they can bloom. One bold but small flower had already completed the cycle, and was dried out. Sometimes, even without rain the Hoodia will allow one flower at a time to bloom, though smaller than when there was rain.
03 January 2006:
Hoodia: At the Ugab formations the Hoodia was still covered in little flower buds, but all signs of any flowers had already been swept away by the wind.
Welwitschia Mirabilis: The Welwitschia at the Ugab formations were in full bloom.

 

Interesting Sightings:

01 January 2006: Ugab Formations: After meeting up with Henk and his guests, with some afternoon cake, we flew over this amazing geological sight enjoying the diversity of colours, even though the sun was hidden behind some clouds.
03 January 2006: Spring: At the Ugab Formations the small spring boasted a large quota of water, probably from rain in the previous 2 days.

 

Kuidas:

 

Weather:

01 January 2006: We arrived at our Kuidas Camp well before sunset, with a fair amount of wind from the coast to welcome us. Towards the East the clouds were building up.
02 January 2006: We woke up to a grey sky, bringing a promise of rain. Actually not only a promise, while walking and driving we were constantly reminded of the impending rains, only a few drops, but it was wet. After lunch, just as we were ready to leave we experienced a cloudburst, which of course delayed our departure. It only lasted about 20 minutes, and gave us nearly 2mm (YES 2mm). Janson, our camp manager reported that an additional 9mm of rain fell after we left.
03 January 2006: André arrived at camp in the late afternoon, it was cloudy and humid.

 

Animals Sighted/Heard:

01 January 2006:
Oryx: Our "resident" Gemsbok were there to greet us as we arrived at the camp, they lifted their heads for a second and then carried on grazing.
Springbok: From our dining area we watched as few Sprinbok slowly make their way over to a water hole to drink. The evening sunlight breaking through the clouds painting the Springbok with an evening glow.
Lion: Henk heard a lion roaring during the night, but we were unable to locate it in the day.
02 January 2006:
Oryx: On our drive we encountered a few Oryx sporadically spread out.
Jackal: We saw one black-backed Jackal quite close to the camp as we set out on our drive.
03 January 2006:
Lion: André heard a lion roaring during the night, though it seemed to be quite distant.
Oryx: Our "resident" Gemsbok with 2 of their young (about 2-3 months old) stole the show when André drew into camp.
04 January 2006:
Lion: On the southern side of the Huab River some fresh lion tracks were spotted, but no sighting of the lion.
Jackal: The black-backed Jackal was still about, it appears there may be a den close by.

 

Plants and Flowers:

02 January 2006: Grey desertbush: All these bushes have been and are still in bloom, also known as a Black Storm bush and used as a laxative by the local inhabitants.
Euphorbia Damarana: The plants are starting to bud.
Euphorbia Verosa: These plants are currently showing signs of new growth, and will soon be in bloom.
Welwitschia Mirabilis: The Welwitschia in this area are all in the early stages of blooming, and there are only a few mature Welwitschia bugs present at this time.

 

Interesting Sightings:

04 January 2006: The Huab river had come down in flood, but was only knee deep, so it was still crossable with a landrover. A green shimmer has started covering the red lavas of this area in response to the rain received.

 

Activities:

02 January 2006: At lunch time we celebrated a birthday the true Namibian way, using the Bushman Candle on a cake on a plate of Basalt.

 

Kuidas to TerraceBay:

 

Weather:

02 January 2006: It was still pretty overcast as we left Kuidas, but it was a smooth flight to the clear coast, though we did encounter some rain drops on the way.
04 January 2006: The sun was breaking through the cloud-enshrouded coast, throwing its rays into the sea, reflecting them back onto the heavy grey clouds, lighting up an otherwise eerie shadow.

 

Coast/Sea:

04 January 2006: The sea was still quiet and clean.

 

Animals Sighted:

02 January 2006: Seals: The colony at Palgrave Point seems to be increasing in numbers and it appears it is becoming a breeding colony. There were quite a number of new-born pups there.
04 January 2006: Oryx: An lonesome Oryx was standing contemplating the ocean when André flew past, just south of the Henrietta ship wreck. An active imagination could come up with all sorts of stories, from such a unique occasion.

 

Interesting Sightings:

04 January 2006: André flew along the Huab river for about 20km from the camp when they reached the front wave of water which was heading towards the Atlantic ocean. It is rather an exciting experience to watch the water swallow up the dry riverbed on its journey to the sea.

 

TerraceBay Dunes:

 

Weather:

02 January 2006: There was a very slight north-westerly wind, but barely 2 knots. The sun was shining on the dunes.
04 January 2006: The sun was able to make its mark on the dunes in places, but the still wind and dry sand made for ideal playground conditions. Fun was had by all as the dunes were made to roarrr.

 

Activities:

02 January 2006: Henk and I had great fun with our guests in these fascinating dunes, a sandpit for all ages.
TerraceBay to Purros Camp:

 

Weather:

02 January 2006: We flew to Purros in the late afternoon, through some rain and under some pretty thick clouds.
04 January 2006: The low clouds forced André to take the "low road" to camp. Which proved very fruitful, with many animal sightings.

 

Animals Sighted:

04 January 2006: During the late afternoon flight to Purros André showed his guests a variety of animals, spread out on the plains in response to the rains that wet the desert earth. Oryx, Springbok, Giraffe and plenty of ostrich.
Purros :

 

Weather:

02 January 2006: The skies were full of clouds and in the distant west as we watched the sun setting, it peeked through the black clouds washing the skies with a golden-red halo, while to the east the electric air was flashing its lightning, dancing between the clouds bringing a promise of rain. During the night we had a few drops.
05 January 2006: Still overcast.

 

Animals Sighted:

02 January 2006:
Elephant: As some of us were still having our sundowners and others were taking their evening showers, our big bull (Skewe Tand) came into our camp, followed by the younger juvenile. Using the "bush telephone" all were informed to stay in their tents, and to indicate when they were ready. Henk then introduced a "taxi" service, transporting all members of the group to and from their tents as was required. The elephant slowly, rather unperturbed, moved through the camp peacefully grazing between the tents.
03 January 2006: While I flew over to Opuwo to refuel the aircraft, Henk went on a game drive along the Huarusib River valley.
Elephant: Henk was fortunate enough to be the first to show his guests the latest addition to our Elephant herd. He said the calf was still very dark in colour and the herd was very protective of it, allowing only a brief viewing. Henk did however catch the footprints of the calf on camera.
05 January 2006: Elephant: The big bull (Skewe Tand) once again laid on a visit, but this time he waited till all were in bed in the early hours of the morning. On the game drive later on Skewe Tand made a show of bathing, then dusting himself after which he took to the cover of the dense bushes. A cow and her 3-year old calf also made a pass, before disappearing into the thicket.
Giraffe: Three of the seven resident male giraffe were seen browsing on the acacia pods.

 

Activities:

02 January 2006: Tonight we celebrated the birthday with a bottle of Champagne – YES the real thing.
03 January 2006: Henk showed off his driving skills when he managed to plant the Landrover in some mud, just as the elephant were on their way past them. All evacuated the Landrover and moved to higher ground, while the elephant suspiciously eyed the obstacle in their path. After carefull scrutiny they moved on their happy way leaving the party of beings to their next ordeal of freeing the Landrover from the grasps of the muddy Huarusib.
05 January 2006: At the Himba Village the ladies decided to dance an "Aeroplane Dance" for André, they gave no further explanation.

 

Purros to Hartmann Valley(Kunene Camp):

 

Weather:

03 January 2006: We left the clouds at Purros and flew on to clearer skies at the coast, with a gentle wind helping us on our way north.
05 January 2006: It was mainly cloudy at the coast, but where sunlight broke through it lit up the clear waters.

 

Coast/Sea:

03 January 2006: The sea was clear and calm, a rare treat for us on this treacherous coast .

 

Animals Sighted:

03 January 2006:
Sharks: We searched the waters and were rewarded with quite a few sightings of sharks in the shallows, where the white water breaks.
Fish: Schools of fish could be seen from the air, casting dark shadows in the clear waters.
Dolphins: Henk saw a pod of dolphin hanging in the water alongside a school of fish, feeding blissfully.
Seals: The colony at Cape Fria is also increasing in size, and as at Palgrave Point, appears to be now breeding. Many seals were scattered in the water either feeding or lazily floating and basking in the sun, always with one fin in the air as if waving to us.
Turtles: We did see some of the Leather-backed Turtle round the Kunene river mouth.
Crocodile: Flying along the Kunene river we spotted a few crocodile on the sand banks.
05 January 2006:
Fish: Schools of fish dotted around the coastline made for interesting viewing.
Turtles: André was fortunate to see about 12 - 15 Leather-backed Turtles at the mouth of the Kunene River, ducking and diving for food in the muddied water.

 

Birds Sighted:

05 January 2006: Vulture: A Lappet-faced Vulture was seen feeding of a seal carcas at Cape Fria, an unusual sighting.

 

Kunene Camp:

 

Weather:

03 January 2006: The clouds were ever-present, and in the early evening started spitting a few drops, just a taste, later during the night they gave us 2mm at the airfield.
04 January 2006: In the morning we were greeted by a dark low cloud, slowly releasing its weight into the parched desert.
05 January 2006: André reported a few drops of rain, but certainly not enough for germination of seeds yet.
06 January 2006: This morning all woke up to a brightly shining sun with clouds hugging the nearby mountain tops, far enough away to look beautiful yet cast no shadow.

 

Animals Sighted:

03 January 2006: Oryx: On our route via the dunes to the camp by Landrover we saw some Oryx patiently waiting for the rains they anticipate.
04 January 2006: Crocodile: Henk and his guests were startled by a crocodile as it surfaced with a fish in its mouth then slowly sank away into deeper waters to enjoy its catch.
05 January 2006: Oryx & Springbok: Most of the animals seem to be moving away as there has been more rain further east, so they will be looking for greener pastures. A few "diehards" were still in the Hartmann Valley. André noted one fresh Oryx carcass, we believe the Oryx to have been older and unable to cope with this dry season.
06 January 2006: Crocodile: On the morning boat ride André reckons they saw just about ALL the crocodiles in the area, probably as a result of the sun shining after a few days of cloudy conditions. Sweetheart was close to the camp with a younger crocodile sharing the sandbank. Further upstream they even saw one of the larger specimen feeding on a dead goat. One Crocodile was sharing his sand bank with a Water Monitor Lizard, apparently quite a large one.
Baboon: While on the water quietly cruising along André and his guests observed two baboons halfway up a cliff face cavorting and playing. On the peak of this same cliff was a third Baboon, who was obviously not impressed with the two jokers, so he promptly picked up a rock and threw it at the two below him, causing quite a ruckus as this rock initiated a minor rock slide. The rumble woke up more baboons who all voiced their disdain in high pitched shrieks.

 

Birds Sighted:

06 January 2006: A number of birds were sighted as they went on their merry way feeding – Paradise Fly Catcher; Pied Kingfisher; Goliath Heron; Augur Buzzard; Olive Bee Eater; Osprey. The more common birds were also present doing their thing.

 

Activities:

03 January 2006: Henk and I negotiated the valley of a thousand dunes. The vista is quite breathtaking with the background of dark clouds hanging over the desert sky.
HartmanValley to Windhoek:

 

Weather:

04 January 2006: Henk flew of in an easterly direction towards Etosha to drop off two of his guests at Ongava. He then had an interesting time dodging the thunderstorms scattered in the interior, to get the other two guests back to Windhoek in time for their connecting flight. I took the more friendly path skirting to the west of all active storms, landing back at our Kuidas camp for coffee and cake, then on the final leg the aircraft was washed in a few showers.
06 January 2006: The entire route back to Windhoek proved to be a dodging game as scattered thundershowers were distributed over most of the interior, just a few miles from the coast.

 

Interesting Sightings:

04 January 2006: RIVERS in FLOOD.
Kumib: There was just a little more than a trickle as we flew over.
Huanib: A gentle rush of water was on its way to the delta.
Huab: It was in "flood" but not a full flood, more of a stream than a river.
06 January 2006: RIVERS in FLOOD.
Kumib: There was still some water, but it was not strong enough to reach the sea.
Huarusib: was now in full flood, and would more than likely reach the sea by nightfall.
Huanib: The water had reached the delta, and a second boost may well send it to the ocean.
Huab: Still flowing but somewhat receded.

 

MARTIN KASAONA

 

Martin will be leaving for Durban on the 23 January to start his new endeavour of a Masters degree in Nature Conservation.
Should anyone be interested in offering a sponsorship, could you please contact Tanja Dahl at the Skeleton Coast Safaris Office.
Tel: +264-61-224248
Fax: +264-61-225713
E-Mail: info@skeletoncoastsafaris.com
P.O. Box 2195
Windhoek
NAMIBIA

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